Thursday, October 1, 2009

Dag 48 / Day 48

GEORGE IS SAFE IN BAHIR DAR. THE DIARY WILL BE UPDATED SOON.

http://www.xafricachallenge.com/
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Thursday, September 24, 2009

DAY 37 - MOYALE

Dag 37: 20 Sep 09 / 18h05

Arriveer in Moyale vanaf Turbi so ongeveer 12 uur die middag, na 'n effens makliker laaste 124 km, en na 'n koppie chai (tee) en 'n Chapatti, amper iets soos pita brood, besluit ek en Hans om die grens oor te steek Ethiopia toe. Aan die Kenia kant was geen probleme nie en is ons binne 20 minute deur. So arriveer ons aan die Ethopiese kant net om meegedeel te word dat dit die einde van Ramadan is, en daarom 'n vakansiedag is.

Wat nou gedoen!!!!Terug Kenia toe kan ons nie, deur die grenspos ry kan ons aangesien daar geen beheer en kontrole is nie, maar wat gebeur as hulle ons langs die pad stop, of hoe kom ons weer uit Ethiopia uit sonder dat ons papierwerk op datum is nie. Dis nou waar Abdullah in die prentjie kom.

Day 37: 20 Sep 09 / 18h05

Arriving in Moyale from Turbi at approximately 12:00 in the afternoon, riding an easier 124 km, enjoying a cup of Chai tea and Chapatti (something like a pita bread), we decided to cross the border into Ethiopia. On the Kenyan side we had no problems and went through within 20 minutes.

DAY 36 - TURBI

Dag 36: 19 Sep 09 / 15h55


Arriveer op Turbi ongeveer half drie die middag en besluit om maar daar te oornag aangesien ons defnitief nie Moyale sou maak voor donker nie, en kry vir ons slaapplek by die Silent Lodge (geen ander opsie nie) vir ongeveer R30,00 per kamer per nag.Aandete bestaan uit bokvleis, reis en bier en met kamele wat die helenag in ons ore bler/bulk, weet nie wat mens dit noem nie maar dis een onaardse geluid, raak ons darem aan die slaap.


Wel dis hier waar Hans en ek uitvind van die skade aan ons motorfietse, en moet daar maar 'n plan die volgende oggend gemaak word om ons tot in Moyale te kry.

Day 36: 19 Sep 09 / 15h55


Arriving in Turbi at half past three in the afternoon, no way we will make Moyale before dark. Found a place to stay at Silent Lodge (No other option) for about R30 per room per night.Supper consisted of goat, rice and a beer with camels bulking, don't know what you actually call the helluva noice they make, we finally fell asleep.


This is where Hans and I found out about the damage to our bikes, and made a plan to at least make it to Moyale.

DAY 32 TO 33: JUNGLE JUNCTION

Dag 32 tot 33: JUNGLE JUNCTION (Vervolg)
15 -16 Sep 09

Wel vandag is my laaste dag by Jungle Junction voordat die tog verder noordwaarts aangepak word, en die sports begin. Moet sê ek het regtig lekker hier gekuier en baie interessante reisigers ontmoet. XChallenge gediens en alle moontlike voorsorg getref vir dit wat op my wag. Volgens inligting verkry plaaslik en van reisigers wat van die noorde af gekom het, is die situasie tussen Isiolo en Moyale nie baie vreedsaam nie, en daarom het vier van ons hier by Jungle Junction - Switser, Duitser, Pool en ek, - besluit om saam verder te ry tot in Ethihopie.

Nog net Hans van Switserland se bike wat aan gewerk word, maar sal hopelik laat vanmiddag klaar wees. So, hou maar duim vas vir die volgende 2 - 3 dae en hou die www dop om meer uit tevind van ons wedervaringe in hierdie ongerepte en ongenaakbare landskap waardeur ons gaan ry.

Day 32 to 33: JUNGLE JUNCTION (Continue)
15 -16 Sep 09

Well today is my last day at Jungle Junction, before continuing North. I have to say, this was an amazing stay and met the most amazing travellers. My XChallenge has been serviced and I tried my best to my provision for what awaits me. According to information from the locals and travellers coming from the North, the situation between Isiolo and Moyale not very peaceful and security has been raised.

For that reason, four of us staying at Jungle Junction travelling north, decided to ride together up to Ethiopia. Only Hans’s (Switzerland) bike is still in the workshop, and will hopefully be done by the end of the day. So please cross your fingers for the next 2 – 3 days and follow us on the www to find out more about our experiences in this untouched and unapproachable landscape where we will be travelling through.

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Day 29 to 33 - THE JUNGLE JUNCTION EXPERIENCE

Wel vandag is my laaste dag by Jungle Junction voordat die tog verder noordwaarts aangepak word, en die sports begin. Moet sê ek het regtig lekker hier gekuier en baie interessante reisigers ontmoet. XChallenge gediens en alle moontlike voorsorg getref vir dit wat op my wag. Volgens inligting verkry plaaslik en van reisigers wat van die noorde af gekom het, is die situasie tussen Isiolo en Moyale nie baie vreedsaam nie, en daarom het vier van ons hier by Jungle Junction - Switser, Duitser, Pool en ek, - besluit om saam verder te ry tot in Ethihopie. Nog net Hans van Switserland se bike wat aan gewerk word, maar sal hopelik laat vanmiddag klaar wees. So, hou maar duim vas vir die volgende 2 - 3 dae en hou die www dop om meer uit tevind van ons wedervaringe in hierdie ongerepte en ongenaakbare landskap waardeur ons gaan ry.(http://edition.cnn.com/2009/WORLD/africa/09/16/kenya.rustling/index.html?section=cnn_latest)

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Well today is my last day at Jungle Junction, before continuing North. I have to say, this was an amazing stay and met the most amazing travellers. My XChallenge has been serviced and I tried my best to my provision for what awaits me. According to information from the locals and travellers coming from the North, the situation between Isiolo and Moyale not very peaceful and security has been raised. For that reason, four of us staying at Jungle Junction travelling north, decided to ride together up to Ethiopia. Only Hans’s (Switzerland) bike is still in the workshop, and will hopefully be done by the end of the day. So please cross your fingers for the next 2 – 3 days and follow us on the www to find out more about our experiences in this untouched and unapproachable landscape where we will be travelling through.(
http://edition.cnn.com/2009/WORLD/africa/09/16/kenya.rustling/index.html?section=cnn_latest)


Puncture Repairs (2)


Puncture Repairs


Eva And Husband With Red T-Shirt Doing Puncture Repairs


Last minute repairs to Hanses HP2



Courier Cost Of My Heavy Duty Sprocket




German Couple On Their Way South



Erling's Yamaha



Erling From Norway



My Bike In The Work Shop



German Couple Arrival At Jungle Junction



Another Victim Of Northern Kenia



250 CC Beta



Flea Market - Naroibi



Smoke Break After Shopping



New Shopping Centre - Nairobi



Some Repairs Are Needed For The Road Ahead


Hans Eichman And His 1200 HP Beast


Jungle Junction - Nairobi

Dag 28 / Day 28

Vandag kon net sowel Vrydag die 13 de gewees het, want wat geklink het na ‘n kort 276 km, het ontaard in ‘n baie moeilike dag. Die pad van Arusha na Kenia grens is onder konstruksie en die detour was van die ergste sinkplaat wat ek al gery het. Dit het my twee en ‘n half ure geneem om ongeveer 110km te ry. Dis net stof en sinkplaat en met die trokke wat die pad ry moet mens kort kort stil hou en wag dat die stof eers gaan le. Die grenspos prodedures was weereens nie ‘n probleem nie behalwe vir die altyd teenwoordige geldruilers wat mens oorval. So het ek nou al uitgevind dat as jy maak of jy nie engels verstaan nie en in afrikaans aanhoudend met hulle praat, hulle jou makliker uitlos. Die pad aan die Kenya kant was plek plek nog in ‘n slegter kondisie, maar maak dit darem tot in Nairobi, net om deur die Vrydag middag verkeer gegroet te word. Dat ek veilig by Jungle Junction arriveer, is net ‘n genade en was bykans 6 - 8 keer deur of ‘n bus of ‘n taxi omgery. Kon nie glo ek het nog al my ledemate toe ek by Jungle Junction stop nie, en kom eers tot verhaal nadat ek omtrent twee pakkies Camels opgeëet het.
Ontmoet hier vir Hans Eichman (
http://www.motorbikeworldtour.com)‘n Switser wat om die wereld ry op sy BMW HP2. Hy het alles so ‘n jaar terug in Switserland verkoop, om hierdie epiese tog aan te pak, en verwag om so teen 2015 dit te voltooi. Al wat hy besit is sy HP2, klere en toerusting waarmee hy reis. Dis nou ‘n man wat sy droom uitleef. Hier is ook ‘n Duitse ou en Poolse meise wat op n Xchallenge en ‘n 250 Beta, van Windhoek tot die noorde van Etihopie ry. Het al meeste van hul kamp toerusting en klere langs die pad gedump, net om die trip makliker te maak. Aangesien almal van ons noord ry, bestaan daar ‘n moontlikheid om saam te ry. Miskien nie ‘n slegte idee nie.
Wel hier sit ek nou en wag vir die heavy duty sprocket, wat nog steeds nie gearriveer het nie, en hoop om by Woensdag 16 de September, in die pad te val. Aangesien ek net 7 dae toegelaat word om deur Kenia te ry, anders moet ek ‘n visum bekom, kan my tyd moontlik verstryk voordat ek oor die grens in Etihopie is, so sal maar more (Maandag 14 September 09) met Chris, die eienaar hier by Jungle Junction praat, en sien watse plan ons kan maak.

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Today could just as well been Friday the 13th, what sounded like a short 276km ended up in a difficult day. The road from Arusha to Kenya border was under construction and the detour was the worst corrugated dirt road up to now. It took me two and a half hours to drive a mere 110km. With dust and corrugated road, pulling over for trucks passing impossible to see through the dust. No problems as the border post, only the hordes of people trying to exchange money. So I’ve learned that pretending not to understand English, only speaking Afrikaans they will leave you in peace. On the Kenyan side of the border the road conditions worsened from time to time but I made it safely to Nairobi, just to be greeted by Friday afternoon traffic. Arriving at Jungle Junction was a pure grace. I was almost hit by busses, taxis on several occasions. I could not believe that I still had all my limbs, when I stopped at Jungle Junction. Only after I almost ate two packets of Camel Filters I realised that I actually made it safely.
This is where I met Hans Eichman from Switzerland (
http://www.motorbikeworldtour.com) travelling around the world on his BMW HP2. He sold all he owns to take on this epic journey and plans to finish by 2015. He is now the proud owner of only his HP2 , clothing and equipment he uses for this trip. This is a man living his dream. I also met a gentleman from Germany and a lady from Poland on their XChallenge and a 250 Beta, riding from Windhoek to the North of Ethiopia. They have dumped most of their camping equipment and clothing to make the trip easier. Seeing that we all are going North into the same direction, the possibility exists that we will travel together. Maybe not a bad idea at all.
Well now I am sitting waiting for my heavy duty sprocket, hoping that I will have it by Wednesday the 16th. I only have 7day’s to pass through Kenya, and would have to apply for a visa if I am not able to proceed soon. So tomorrow Monday the 14th , I will have a chat with Chris the owner at Jungle Junction to see if we can make a plan.



Pamoja Lodge - Arusha


Road To The Kenian Border - North From Arusha


My Piki-Piki


Car Guard At Border Post


Tanzania - Kenia Border Post


Road To Nairobi

Dag 27 / Day 27

Vertrek uit Dar es Salaam so omstreeks 05:15am en besluit om tot in Arusha te ry, so ongeveer 665 km, wat my in die omgewing van 10 ure neem. So ry ek verby mount Kilimanjaro net buite Moshi, maar kan ongelukkig nie eens ‘n foto neem as gevolg van al die deinserigheid en lae wolke nie. Sal dit maar los vir ‘n volgende trip. Snaaks genoeg die twee Duitse motorfiets ryers wat ek in Karonga, Malawi ontmoet het, het hoog en laag gesweer Mount Kilimanjaro bestaan nie, aangesien hulle ‘n dag of twee in die area gespandeer het en nooit werklik die berg kon sien nie.
Arriveer in Arusha omstreeks half vier die midddag, en oornag by Jajebo Lodge - waar ek Boniface, ‘n Keniaan en bestuurder by die lodge ontmoet. Wel ek moes uitvind hy kom van ‘n dorpie tussen Marsebit en Mojale (op my roete). Hy het nie goeie dinge gehad het om te se oor die pad se kondisie en die moontlikheid van "bandits" langs die pad nie. Nie baie gerustellend om te hoor nie moet ek sê. Hy vertel my ook dat die “Clock Tower” in die middel van Arusha die "amptelike halfpad merk" tussen Kaapstad en Cairo is en dat ek defnitief daar ‘n draai moet maak en ‘n foto neem. Wat ek toe die volgende oggend oppad uit doen, bestemming Nairobi Kenia.

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Departure from Dar es Salaam at 5:15, I decided to travel to Arusha, a mere 665km, and a ten hour drive for me. When I reached Kilimanjaro just outside Moshi I could not even take a picture due to the low and dense clouds. Maybe I will get lucky on my next trip. Funny enough the two riders from Germany that I met in Karonga, Malawi firmly believe that Mount Kilimanjaro does not exist. They spent two days and could never really see any mountain.
I arrived Safely in Arusha at 3:30 the afternoon and stayed over at Jajebo Lodge. Here I met Boniface the Kenyan Manager of the Lodge. He informed me that he comes from a little town between Marsebit and Moyale, (on my route). He warned me about the bad road conditions and the possibility of bandits. Leaving me with a somewhat uneasy feeling. He also told me to visit the Clock Tower in the middle of Arusha and that this is acknowledged as the halfway mark between Cape Town and Cairo. So I did take that picture the next morning before I left for Nairobi Kenya.




Arusha Clock Tower


Boniface - Manager At Pamoja


Tanzanian Mountain Range


Tanzanian Sisal Crops


Brewing Storm South Of Moshi - Tanzania

Dag 26 / Day 26

En so die teruggekeer Dar es Salaam toe, om die lang pad noord aan te durf. Maar eers moes die luggage rack en voorband op die bike uitgesorteer word. Dis mos nie ‘n probleem nie. Tuk Tuk in Dar es Salaam het belowe die band sal daar wees ( so Taiwanese special ) en die nodige boude en spacers het mos uit SA aangekom. Wel, die boude was die verkeerde grootte en ‘n plan moes gemaak word - 40 usd later weer vir ‘n taxi het ek darem die band gehad. Steve Luker in Dar es Salaam kon my help om die voorband te vervang , nuwe agter sprocket op te sit en tydelik boude te gee om my tot in Nairobi deur te sien. Thanks Steve.

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Back in Dar es Salaam, ready to take on the long road to the North. But before that can happen the luggage rack and front tyre needs to be sorted. That is no problem, Tuk Tuk in Dar es Salaam promised it will be there on my return from Zanzibar. (Some Taiwanese Special). I did receive the bolts and spacers from South Africa. To my disappointment they were the wrong size. 40USD for my taxi fare and at least I had the tyre. Steve Luker in Dar es Salaam assisted me with replacing the front tyre and new sprocket and temporary bolts to help me get to Nairobi. Thanks Steve.



Traffic Jam


Dar es Salaam - Tanzania

Sunday, September 13, 2009

Day 21 to 25 - WEEKEND IN ZANZIBAR

Zanzibar was ‘n wonderlike ervaring veral om dit te deel met ‘n baie spesiale persoon. Maar om daar te kom moet ‘n mens of met die ferry (+/-2 ure) of met ‘n Charter vlug (+/- 20 min) oorgaan, en dis die opsie waarop ek besluit het. Wat ‘n ervaring. Met 13 mense aan boord ingedruk soos sardyntjies en ‘n vlug wat my nogal laat dink het aan ‘n roller coaster ride het ons darem veilig in Zanzi aangekom, en ‘n absolute wonderlike 3 dae daar spandeer. Met ‘n swaar gemoed is daar afskeid geneem op Dinsdag 08/09/09.

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Zanzibar was a wonderful experience especially the opportunity to share it with a very special person. To get there I had either go by ferry (+/- 2 hours) or a Charter flight (+/-20min). The Charter flight sounded perfect. What an experience. With 13 people on board squashed like sardines, feeling like a roller coaster ride, but arrived safely in Zanzibar. We had the most wonderful three days in Zanzibar. It was a very reluctant farewell on 08/09/09 going back to Dar es Salaam.



Dar es Salaam Airport.


Dar es Salaam - Departure Hall.


Airport Baggage Handling.


Pack Like Sardines And Ready To Go.


My Taxi To Zanzibar.


In-flight View Over Dar es Salaam.


Neptune Pwani - On The Island Of Zanzi.


More Neptune Pwani On Zanzi.

Wednesday, September 9, 2009

Dag 20 / Day 20

6100km Verder – ‘n Pragtige sons opkoms by White Sands Hotel, dink ek hier bly ek ‘n week. Die gedagte om ‘n “beach bum” te word lyk al hoe aanlokliker.

Ek wil nou net Zanzibar toe.

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6100km into my trip – With the most beautiful sunrise I’ve ever seen at the White Sands Hotel. The thought of staying a week comes to mind, or just maybe to become a “beach bum”.



Sunrise - White Sands Beach Tanzania


White Sands Beach Tanzania

Dag 19 / Day 19

Ek sien nie kans vir die gaotiese verkeer vandag nie en besluit om Dar Es Salaam te vermy en Bagamoyo toe te ry oor Msata. Onwetend dat ek 60km slegte grondpad gaan kry tussen Msata en Bagamoyo waar die “bike” letterlik en figuurlik uit mekaar geskud het. Soveel so dat een boud aan weerskante van die "pannier rack" mors afgebreek het.

Ons probeer verder ook om ‘n veilige plekkie te kry vir “Ou Bees” terwyl ek in Zanzibar gaan rus. Weereens kom “Ray Muller” tot ons redding en maak kontak met “Alwyn” die bestuurder van die White Sands Hotel tussen Bagamoyo en Dar es Salaam, om my verder te help soek vir ‘n band.

O, Ja voor ek vergeet hier noem hulle ‘n bike 'n “Piki Piki” . Was dit nie vir iets soos “crash bars” nie was hierdie Piki Piki van my in sy @#%**. So moet ek hulle met ‘n rubber hamer reg dokter. Ou “Piki Piki” gaan nooit weer dieselfde wees nie. "Duct tape" en "cable ties" is wonderlike goed.

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Not up to the chaotic traffic in Dar Es Salaam, I decided to travel to Bagamoyo via Msata. But little did I know that 60km will be very bad dirt road. This is where my bike rattled and vibrated so much so that one of the bolts on either side on the pannier rack snapped off.

Again our friend “Ray Muller” saved the day by arranging with “Alwyn” Manager at the White Sands Hotel between Bagamoyo and Dar es Salaam to assist me further with my repairs and tyre problems.

Before I forget, a bike is called a “Piki Piki”. If it wasn't for my “crash bars” this Piki Piki of mine would be %^*^&. This is where my rubber mallet becomes a doctor. This Piki Piki will never ever be the same. Duct tape and cable ties are wonderful things.


Broken Pannier Rack Bolts


Gravel Road To Bagamoyo

Dag 18 / Day 18

Vertrek vanaf “The Old Farm House”. Die deel van Tanzanie het redelik baie berg reekse en skaars ‘n uur op die pad, om ‘n blinde draai kry ek die omgekeerde trok. Dit was nie die eerste ongeluk wat ek tee kom nie en dit word nou ‘n meer gereelde ervaring.

Met die voorband gaan dit nie so goed nie, en ek mik nou om more in Bagamoyo te wees. Die support span sukkel om ‘n band te reel in Dar es Salaam. Al die handelaars se dieselfde: “ Yes, Yes please come we will make a plan".....maar probeer nou bevestig of hulle die regte grote band het, dan hoor jy net weer dieselfde "Yes, Yes please come we will make a plan". Ons het dit selfs oorweeg om met DHL ‘n band te stuur Bagamoyo toe, maar teen R10 045 was dit nie eers ‘n opsie nie.

Daar was vandag tyd vir net een petrol stop by die lokale Ultra City. Miskien is dit die rustyd in Zanzibar wat roep, het besluit om na 4,5 ure en net 240 km, vroeer slaap plek te soek by Tan-Swiss in Mikumi.

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Departure from “The Old Farm House”. Travelling through these mountain roads accidents became more regular and barely missed a capsized truck on a blind corner.

My front tyre is holding up, but I don't know for how long. The support team keeps on trying to find a dealer with a tyre in stock. They all say, "Yes, Yes please come we will make a plan", but cannot give a positive confirmation that they actually do have stock. We did consider sending a tyre from South Africa by DHL, but to our dismay the cost is R10 045 and not an option.

I had time for one petrol stop today at the local Ultra City. Desperately wanting to reach Zanzibar, after 4.5 hours and only 240km covered, I decided to sleep over at Tan-Swiss in Mikumi.


The Old Farm House

Regular Occurrence
Tanzanian Ultra City

Dag 17 / Day 17

Ek het Malawi met sy besonderse meer gegroet en vroeg in die pad geval. Dit was egter net 46 km grenspos toe maar ek wou vroeg daar wees voor dit te besig word. So op my pad na die grenspos, verstom ek my nog steeds aan die mense hier, wat sommer hulle eie steen makery praktiseer en huisies bou. Daar was egter geen probleme by die grenspos nie en was vinnig klaar en deur na Tanzanie.

Dis was dadelik opvallend dat hoe verder noord ek gaan, hoe slegter word die paaie en moet ek so moet ek my spoed ook aanpas. Mens het ook nie nodig om vêr in Tanzanie in te ry om jou eerste tee plantasie te sien nie. Hier is dit ‘n groot bron van inkomste vir die mense in die landelike gebiede en die tee word sommer so teen die walle en in die klowe geplant.

Glad nie maklik om te "navigate" tussen die klein dorpies deur nie. Dit was ‘n laaaang 450 km vandag maar arriveer veilig by The Old Farm House – Kisilanga.

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I said goodbye to Malawi with its beautiful lake, on my way to the border post only 46km. Again there was no problems at the border post and soon I entered Tanzania.

Believe me, it's not easy to navigate your way through all the small towns with there crowded streets. The further north I travel, the more the road conditions worsen and I had to adjust my speed to a much slower pace.

You do not have to travel too far before the first tea plantations start to show. This is a huge income to the people in the rural area and is a beautiful sight.

Today was a loooooong 450km, but again I arrived safely at the “The Old Farm House – Kisilanga.


Brick Works


Tanzanian Border Post


Tanzanian Tee Plantation


The Old Farm House