Dag 15 / Day 15

Soos ek die dag deur die noorde ry val dit my op dat hier by omtrent by elke tweede of derde huisie bakstene gemaak word, en onmiddelik besef ek wat die verskil tussen die Malawiese en Zambiese platteland is. Waar hulle in Zambia tradisionele modderhutte bou, maak en bou die Malawiers vir hulle sulke netjiese rooi baksteen huisies. ‘n Ander aspek wat my ook opgeval het is hoe vriendelik die Malawiers is en hoe die kinders hier nie vir geld vra nie maar wel vir penne om mee te skryf. Wys mens net hoe honger hulle vir onderrig is, en hoe bevoorreg baie kinders in South Afrika is.

Malawie is ook maar ‘n duur land om deur te reis en selfs die Europese toeriste kla hieroor, veral as hulle dit vergelyk met lande noord van Malawie. Petrol kan tot oor die R14,00 per litre beloop en akkommodasie is baie duur as mens kyk wat jy daarvoor kry. Op Karonga aangekom kry ek blyplek by die “Maina Beach Lodge”, maar meer oor hierdie fiasko later. More is ‘n rusdag en dan nog net so ongeveer 46 km tot by die Tanzaniese grens en my vierde van agt Afrika lande.

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While travelling through the North, it is noticeable that at every second or third house they are making bricks. Realizing that this is the difference between Malawi and Zambian country side. In Zambia you will see the traditional mud huts and in Malawi neatly built brick houses. The Malawian people are friendly, children asking you for pen’s to write with not money. Just comes to show how hungry they are for education, and how privileged our South African children are.

Malawi is expensive, even European tourists are complaining if you compare the countries to the north of Malawi. You will pay up to R14 per litre of petrol and accommodation even more if you see what you get for money paid. Safely arrived at “Maina Beach Lodge” and will tell you more about this fiasco later. Tomorrow is a rest day, 46km before the Tanzanian border. This will be the fourth off eight countries I'll be travelling through.


Nkata Bay - CBD


River Crossing - North Malawi


Roadside Cafe

Dag 14 / Day 14

Dag begin nie op ‘n goeie noot nie nadat ek die vorige dag al agtergekom het dat dit voel die motorfiets se voor rim ovaal is. By nadere inspeksie is dit duidelik dat daar ‘n probleem met die voorband is, en dat dit defnitief nie Nairobi in Kenia gaan maak nie. Wat nou gedoen? Johan en Riana in samewerking met Ray Muller van Cytek probeer om ‘n band in Lilongwe te kry, maar sonder enige sukses, en die besluit word geneem dat ek maar stadig sal aanry Tanzanie toe en dat daar intussentyd ‘n plan gemaak sal word.

Terwyl ek wag op nuus oor die band in Salima, ontmoet ek vir Sharon, haar dogter en Clayton wat al die pad van Durban, deur Mosambiek tot hier op 125 en 250 cc Yamahas gery het, en oppad terug is. Voorwaar ‘n besonderse prestasie as mens in agneem dat hulle al hul kampeer toerusting op die motorfietse dra. ( Hope you make it back home safely guys) Hulle kan gevolg word op www.motorcyclingmadness.co.za

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Starting my day with a wary feeling. I noticed the day before that the front rim feels Oval. With further inspection it is very clear that there is definitely a problem with the front tyre, no way I am going to reach Nairobi (Kenya). What to do? Johan, Riana and Ray Muller (Cytek) attempted to arrange a tyre in Lilongwe, but to no avail. I made the decision to travel slowly to Tanzania, hoping that a solution will follow.

While waiting on news about the tyre, I met Sharon her daughter and Clayton travelling all the way from Durban (South Africa) through Mozambique to Salima on 125 en 250 cc Yamaha's. A true achievement if taken into account that they are travelling with ALL their camping equipment on the bikes. (Pray that you make it back safely guys). You could follow their adventure on www.motorcyclingmadness.co.za


Sharon, Clayton and Daughter


Africa Engineering

Dag 13 / Day 13

Vandag moet daar weereens ‘n grenspos aangepak word, en besluit ek om maar vroeg te wikkel. ‘n Mens weet nooit hoe lank die beamptes by die grensposte jou kan besig hou nie, maar weereens is ek verras. Behalwe vir ‘n beampte aan die Malawiese kant wat met ‘n hoenderboudjie in die eenhand en my paspoort in die ander probeer om paspoort te stempel, verloop alles seepglad en is ek oor die grens in minder as ‘n uur. Een ding wat elke reisiger in Afrika baie versigtig voor moet wees is die hordes wat jou toesak by elke grenspos om geld te wissel. Vind maar eers uit wat die wisselkoers is voor jy ‘n land binnegaan en ruil net genoeg om al die belastings ens by die grensposte te betaal. Wisselkoers by hierdie ouens is baie swakker as wat mens bv. by die banke sal kry.

Oppad na Salima langs die Malawi meer, ry ek ‘n draai deur die hoofstad, Lilongwe en is ek aangenaam verras. Mens sal dink jy's in Suid Afrika met al die bekende handelsname wat hier teenwoordig is. Bereik Salima so ongevveer halfdrie die middag en besluit om by Safari Beach Lodge, langs die Malawi meer te oornag. Die meer is ‘n belewenis en alles en nog meer wat ek verwag het, en jy kan jou maklik verbeel jy sit langs die see.

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Today I will be crossing another border post and decided to leave early. How long border officials will keep you busy you can only guess, again I was surprised. Except for the official holding a chicken breast in the one hand, trying to stamp my passport with the other, everything went smooth. Less than an hour. One thing any traveller should be wary off is the crowd of people attempting to exchange money. Good idea to know what the rate exchange is before entering. Exchange just enough to pay your taxes. Exchange rate with these guys are a lot weaker as at the bank.

On my way to Salima next to the Malawi lake, I travelled through Lilongwe. I almost though I’m back in South Africa noticing all the familiar brands. 3pm I arrived at “Safari Beach Lodge”, next to the Malawi Lake. This exceeded my expectations and you could easily imagine yourself sitting next to the sea.


Zambia-Malawi Border


Lake Malawi 1


Lake Malawi 2

Dag 12 / Day 12

Na ‘n welverdiende rusdag by “Bridge Camp”, en ontmoeting van beide New Zeelandse en Nederlandse toeriste, wat almal net wil verneem van toestande in Suid Afrka en of ons op dieselfde pad is as Zimbabwe, vat ek die pad oos, Chipata toe. Die dag verloop sonder enige voorvalle, behalwe vir die oneindige padblokkades en arriveer omstreeks 3 uur op Chipata.

Oornag by Mama Rula's. Ontmoet hier n Spanjaard, Rapheal, wat in Chicago, VSA woon en deur Afrika reis deur gebruik te maak van "overlanders". Vir die wat nie weet nie, ‘n overlander is soos ‘n bus, toegerus vir Afrika kondisies met alle kampeertoerusting ens. wat ‘n spesifieke roete volg en by kampeerplekke oornag.(sal nog n foto van een pos) As jy jou bestemming bereik, wag jy net vir die volgende een om jou weer in ‘n ander rigting te neem.

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After a well deserved rest day at “Bridge Camp”, meeting travellers from New Zealand and Netherlands, inquiring about the South Africa and if we are on the same road as Zimbabwe.......I continued travelling east towards Chipata. Except for the endless roadblocks the day continued without any incidents and I arrived in Chipata at 3pm.

I found a place to stay at Mama Rula’s. This is where I met a Spanish gentlemen, “Rapheal” from Chicago, VSA. “Rapheal” is travelling through Africa with an Overlander. For those who don’t know – a bus equipped for all Africa conditions with all camping equipment needed. They follow a specific route and stay over at different camping spots. ( I will post a photo of one soon). As soon as you reach your destination, you could stay over as longs as you want and wait for the next Overlander to take you into another direction.



Departure-Bridge Camp


Luangwa River - Border of Zambie/Mozambique


Mama Rulas - Chipata Zambia

Dag 11 / Day 11

Rus Dag - Bridge Camp. Was 'n heerlik verrassing, met 'n pragtige uitsig oor die Luangwa rivier, en Mosambiek net op die oorkantste oewer, en vriendelike en hulpvaardige personeel. Defnitief 'n moet vir enige reisiger om hier te stop oppad Malawi toe. (www.bridgecampzambia.com)
Nog net een dag in Zambia voor ek die grens oorsteek Malawi in. Kan nie wag om by die meer uit te kom nie.........

Rest day – Bridge Camp. Another wonderful surprise with a beautiful view over the Luangwa river, Mozambique just across shore. Friendly and hospital staff. A Definite for any traveller on their way to Malawi. (www.bridgecampzambia.com)
One more day in Zambia, then Malawi. Cannot wait to see more of Africa...........

Bridge Camp

Still Living

Luangwa Rivier

Dag 10 / Day 10

Vandag was een van daai dae dat 'n mens net wil aanhou ry en ry en nie omgee waar jy opeindig nie. Daarom het ek besluit om sommer direk van Choma na Bridge Camp te ry, so ongeveer 560km in totaal en nie by Pioneer kamp, net buite Lusaka te oornag nie.

Great Eastern Road

Maar eers meer oor my ontmoeting met Insp. F Simwinga. Net voor Kafue word ek vir die hoeveelste keer in 'n padblokkade gestop, en weereens word al my dokumentasie deurgegaan.(Glo my, as jy 5 keer gestop word binne 200km, raak 'n mens redelik geirreteerd). Hier kruis my en die Insp. se paaie. Hy het my te vertelle dat hy 'n 4 maande intensiewe motorfiets kursus by BWM in Sandton bygewoon het en dat hy 'n expert motorfiets ryer is. En net daar klim hy op die fiets om my te wys. Wel... dit het baie mooi praat gevat om hom van plan te laat verander, en die belofte dat ek 'n foto van hom op die www. gaan plaas, het hom uiteindelik van plan laat verander. Well Insp. hier is jou " one second to fame".

Inspector F. Simwinga

Lusaka was 'n nagmerrie om deur te kom, en dis net pure geluk dat ek nie raak- of omgery is nie, en wou nie 'n sekond langer daar vertoef as wat nodig was nie. Weet nie wat vir my voorle in die ander Afrika hoofstede nie, sal maar moet wag en sien.

Lunch Stop

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Day 10: 24 Aug 09 / 20h00

Today was one of those day’s that you just want to ride and ride not caring where you end up. Therefore the decision to depart from Choma directly to Bridge Camp. A total of 560km skipping the plan to stay over at “Pioneer Camp” just after Lusaka. But first more about my meeting with Inspector Simwinga. Just before “Kafue” I was stopped various times in a road block, checking my documents again and again. (Five times in 200 km radius, getting really frustrated.) This is just where my path crossed with Inspector Simwinga. The story goes, he had 4 months of intensive motorcycle training at BMW in Sandton and that he is an expert motorcyclist, with that he got onto my bike to show me. It cost a lot of smooth talk to change his mind, and a promise that I will post his picture on our www. So Inspector Simwinga this one is for you.Lusaka was a nightmare. Only by pure luck I didn't get hit by some vehicle. Here I didn't want to stay longer than what's necessary and I wondered what awaiting me further in all Capital City’s of Africa on this adventure. I will have to wait and see.Arrived Safely at Bridge Camp one day ahead of schedule.

Dag 9 / Day 9

Wel, die dag het aangebreek wat enige reisiger / toeris in Afrika vrees, grensposte met hul burokratiese rompslomp en totale gebrek aan belangstelling en hulpvaardigheid. Maar daar het 'n verrassing op my gewag. Aan beide kante was doeane beamptes vriendelik en hulpvaardig, veral as hulle hoor jy is van SA wil hulle net "2010 wereldbekersokker" gesels en weet of alles in plek is vir die gebeurtenis. Aan die Zambiese kant moes ek die ekwivalent van R320,00 betaal vir derdeparty versekering, padbelasting en "carbon emmission tax". Wat 'n grap as jy sien dat by elke hut sover as wat jy ry, daar bolle rook uitkom. Maar nou ja, seker net nog 'n manier van die regering om hulle koffers te vul.

Livingston pad na Zimba

Op Livingston word ek gewaarsku teen die pad kondisie tusssen daar en Zimba, maar ek was nie voorbereid op dit wat vir my gewag het nie. Nagenoeg 60km van slegte sinkplaat grondpad. (Dink amper al my stopsels in my tande het los geskud op hierdie stuk pad en 'n voorsmaak van dit wat ek nog gaan teekom op hierdie reis.) Volgens inligting van die lokale mense werk die Chinese nou al amper twee jaar aan die pad en lyk dit of daar nie veel vordering gemaak word nie.

Padkafee in Choma

Zambia is 'n duur land. Petrol kos oor die R10,00 / lt en n pizza so groot soos 'n kleinbordjie met 'n vrugtesap het my oor die R100,00 uit die sak gejaag op "Choma". So arriveer ek darem veilig by "Kozo Lodge" nadat ek herhaaldelik by pad blokkades gestop is om seker te maak al my papierwerk is in orde.

Bier aflewering in Zambia

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Day 9: 23 Aug 09 / 19h00

The day any tourists dreads had arrives, border posts with their bureaucratic, fuss, total lack of interest and assistance. BUT a surprise awaited me. On both sides of the border, officials were friendly and assisting where they can. Especially if they hear that you are from South Africa, 2010 Soccer World Cup is the main topic of discussion. On the Zambian side I had to pay the equivalent of R320 for third party insurance, road tax and carbon emission tax. What a joke, if you see the plumes of smoke rising up from every hut as far as you travel. One way of making money.In Livingstone, I am warned about the bad road condition to Zimba, but still I was not prepared on how bad. About 60km of really bad corrugated dirt road. (Think I lost all my fillings in my teeth, surely only a taste of what is ahead on this journey.) According to the locals the Chinese are working on these roads for the past two years, and it looks like they haven't made a lot of progress.Zambia is expensive. Petrol just over R10,00 / lt, - a small pizza with a juice at a cost of R100.00 in Choma. Again with numerous road blocks to ensure that my paperwork is in order, I arrived safely at “Kozo Lodge”

Dag 8 / Day 8

Rest day – Zambezi Lodge with a beautiful view of the river.


Zambezi View


Zambezi Lodge

The bracket of the satellite tracker needed some attention and Zambezi Auto City gladly lends a helping hand. The repair was sorted in no time. Thanks guys.


Zambezi Auto Guys

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Day 8: 22 Aug 09 / 17h00
Rest day – Zambezi Lodge with a beautiful view of the river.The bracket of the satellite tracker needed some attention and Zambezi Auto City gladly lends a helping hand. The repair was sorted in no time. Thanks guys.

Dag 7 / Day 7

So vertrek ek dou voor dag vanaf Nunda Lodge met die idee om lekker vroeg by my oornag punt te arriveer, maar het nie rekening gehou met al die interessante mense wat ek op oppad so ontmoet nie. So 50 km wes van Kongola kruis my en Erik se paaie. Erik is van Denemarke en is oppad om na die Himbas in die noord weste van Namibie te reis. Hy het vir hom n tweedehandse 640 KTM in Jhb gekoop en reis tans deur Namibie. Slaap sommer in die aande in die veld langs die pad om kostes laag te hou. Hy beplan om volgende jaar terug te ry Denemarke toe met die KTM via die weskus van Africa. (Miskien moet ek daaraan dink om hom tevergesel).


Erik van Denemarke

Op Kongola ontmoet ek Frottes en Skalla, toeroperateurs van Gordonsbaai in die Weskaap (Kisusuli Safaris), besig om twee Italiaanse meisies op n toer deur Namibie te neem met hulle Isuzu bakkie, gedoop Saartjie Baardman. Watter aangename twee ouens. Word sommer n cap en beanie in die hand gestop en sterkte toegewens met my avontuur. Een ding is verseker, om van hierdie twee ouens as toeroperateurs se dienste gebruik te maak, kan net een groot "party" wees. Veilig ry julle manne en ek kyk uit vir julle boodskap op die webblad.


Frottes en Skalla

More is n rusdag en dan wag Zambie,

Groete vaniut die Caprivi

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Day 7: 21 Aug 09 / 23h30
Decided to leave “Nunda Lodge” bright and early to arrive early at my overnight stop. But I didn't count on all the interesting people I would met on my journey. 50 km West from “Kongola” my path crossed with Eric. Eric is travelling from “Denmark” to “Himbas” in the North West from Namibia. He purchased a second hand 640 KTM in Johannesburg for his journey through Namibia. Sleeping in the veldt next to the road to save money. His plan is to return to “Denmark” next year via the West Coast of Africa. (Maybe I should consider accompanying him).In “Kongola” I met with “Frottes and Skalla”, tour operators from Gordon bay in the West Cape. (Kisusuli Safaris). They are guids to two Italian woman on a tour through Namibia in their Isuzu bakkie, named “Saartjie Baardman”. Only a pleasure to meet these two!. They handed me a cap and a beanie and wished me well on my adventure. One thing's for sure, making use of these guys as tour operators can only mean one, big “party”. Have a safe journey I am looking forward to your message on my website.Tomorrow is a rest day then Zambia awaits. - Greetings from Caprivi.

Dag 6 / Day 6

Na ‘n stewige ontbyt, en vetkoeke en maalvleis vir padkos, wat tannie “Anna en Christine” vir my gee, val ek in die pad en arriveer so omstreeks half drie by Nunda Lodge, by die “Popa” valle. Wat ‘n pragtige plek. Sal eendag meer tyd hier wil spandeer, maar die lang pad roep en Kairo is nog ver.


Tannie Anna & Christine - Roy's Camp


Zamdesi river at Nunda Lodge

Die dag eindig nie op n goeie noot nie met die Bgan satelietmodem wat nie wil werk nie. Les no.1, moet nie aanneem eerste wereld tegnologie gaan altyd in Afrika werk nie. Gelukkig is die ondersteuningsspan besig om dit uittesorteer en behoort ons binnekort weer opspoed te wees.


Mobile Office

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Day 6: 20 Aug 09 / 22h30
After a huge breakfast with vetkoek and mince as provisions from Aunt “Anna & Christine”, I left for the next stretch and arrived safely at “Nunda Lodge” at Popa Falls. What a beautiful place. I am definitely planning to visit here again and would have loved to stay longer. But the long road to Cairo awaits.This day does not end on a good note, cannot get the Bgan Sat modem to work. Lesson no.1, do not .... that first world technology is always going to work smoothly in Africa. Luckily the support team is busy resolving the problem and it will be all systems go.ps. Thank you to Adiel / Stephen from “EvoSat” for the late night assistance. Also a thank you to “Anthony” from “Coppernet - Lusaka” for his willingness to take acceptance of the new BGan for handover to George.

Dag 5 / Day 5

Vertrek so 6 uur se kant uit n ysige Windhoek na Grootfontein. Halfpad tussen Otavi en Grootfontein ontmoet ek vir “Barry” op n KTM en sy twee vriende ( het ongelukkig hul name vergeet ) op n 1150GS van Boksburg wat deur Namibie toer. Regtig lekker om mense wat eintlik so naby aan my woonagtig is, en dieselfde passie deel, sover van die huis af te ontmoet. Hoop julle kom veilig by die huis.


Barry en vriende

Oornag by “Roys Camp”, so 60 km buite Grootfontein, en geen moeite word deur die eienares, “Marietjie Otto”, ontsien om vir my ‘n slaapplek te reel nie, aangesien hulle eintlik vol bespreek is. Baie dankie Marietjie, ek het regtig nie nog kans gesien om 200 km tot op Rundu te ry nie.

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Day 5: 19 Aug 09 / 20h30
Departure 6 am from an icy cold “Windhoek” towards my next destination - “Grootfontein”. Halfway between “Otavi and Grootfontein” I met “Barry” riding a KTM with his two friends (Unfortunately I forgot their names) travelling with their 1150Gs from “Boksburg through Namiba”. What a pleasure meeting people living so close to home, sharing the same passion. Drive safely guys.I decided to overnight at “Roy’s Camp”, 60 km outside “Grootfontein”. “Marietjie Otto” left no stone unturned to arrange a sleeping place especially for me, seeing that they were fully booked. Thank you so much “Marietjie”, there is no way I could travel another 200km to “Rundu”.

Dag 4 / Day 4

Rusdag. Ry ‘n draai deur Windhoek en spandeer die res van die dag om ‘n paar dinge uittesorteer.

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Day 4: 18 Aug 09 / 18h10Day 4 – R & R, Riding through Windhoek – time to sorting out some things.

Dag 3 / Day 3

Neem afskeid van “René” op Keetmanshoop wat terugdraai Kaapstad toe en begin die lang tog alleen noorde toe. In Windhoek word daar eers by “Danvic Auto” gestop waar “Dieter” gou ‘n paar dinge op die motorfiets uitsorteer.

Ontmoet hier 4 Angolese motorfietsryers wat al die pad van “Luanda” af ry Windhoek toe so elke 3 - 4 maande om hul fietse te laat diens. Dis ‘n afstand van bykans 2500 km waarvan nagenoeg 900 km slegte grondpad is. Volgens “Dieter” ry hierdie ouens hul fietse (800 GS) in die grond in en verwag dan van hom om wonderwerke te verrig.


Angolese 800GS in Windhoek

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Day 3: 17 Aug 09 / 21h20Keetmanshoop (Namibia) - and I had to say farewell to “René” turning back to Cape Town. The long and lonely journey to the North awaits. A pit stop at “Danvic Auto” in Windhoek to do an overall check on “Ou Bees”.This is where I met four Angolian motorcyclists, touring all the way from “Luanda” to “Windhoek”. This is a ritual every 3 – 4 month’s for a service on there bikes. A distance of almost 2500km, of which 900km are bad dirt roads. Thereafter “Dieter” needs to work his miracles fixing the bikes.

Dag 2 / Day 2

Dinge begin nie goed op Springbok nie. Die XChallenge blaas ‘n "fuse" en die brandstoftenk moet amper heeltemal afgehaal word om die probleem op te los. Kon die mense wat die ombouing gedoen het nie maar daaraan gedink het nie. Sou dit soveel makliker gemaak het, maar nou ja. Groete vir “Johan en Andre” wat terugdraai Jhb toe en val in die pad na Keetmanshoop.


Replacing Blown Fuse In Springbok

Net deur die Namibiese grenspos steek daar ‘n wind op wat ons deurmekaar waai. Tydens ‘n “smoke break” so 40 km voor Granua waai die wind die XChallenge om. Uiteinde, ‘n gebuigde “crash bar” en ‘n duik in die regterkantste “pannier”. Gelukkig niks wat n rubber hamer nie kan uitsorteer nie en gou is ons weer oppad.

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Day 2: 16 Aug 09 / 18h40
What a way to start Day 2. Blew a “fuse”, the solution – almost removing the whole fuel tank to solve the problem. Why not make provision for this before the bike was converted, it would have made things a lot less painful. So we said good bye to “Johan and Andre” turning back to Johannesburg. Time to hit the road to Keetmanshoop (Namibia). Barely through the Namibian border post, we got a gust of wind 40km before “Granua” Namibia during a “smoke break” the blast wind actually blew the bike over. The result - a bent crash bar and a dent into the right-hand pannier. Luckily, nothing that a rubber hammer could not fix. Soon we are on the road again.

Dag 1 / Day 1

Wel na ses dae op die pad begin ek nou eers besef dat die trip ‘n werklikheid geword het. Elke kilometer wat ek aflê besef ek eers hoe bevoorreg ek is om in die posisie te wees om hierdie tog aan te pak.

Wat het tot dusver gebeur? Ons het vertrek uit ‘n nat en reënerige Kaapstad saam met met vriende René, Johan en André om so 09:30 en vat die lang pad aan Springbok toe. Gelukkig klaar die reën weer op net buite Malmesbury en kan ons met gemak ry.

Ontmoet toe hierdie Ausie, “Rodger”, wat besig is om deur die land te toer op ‘n gehuurde R1200GS. Glo nie iemand sal daai “bike” wil koop as hy met hom klaar is nie aangesien hy soos die die duiwel ry, maar wat ‘n aangename ou. “Rodger”, May you arrive back home safely in Aus and hope to see you back in SA in 2011.

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Well after six day’s on the road, it only now comes to mind that this is IT, this is for real. Every kilometre I realise how privileged I am to do this trip.

What happened so far – 9:30 am, Departure from a wet and rainy Cape Town (South Africa) accompanied by my friends René, Johan and André. Taking on the long road to Springbok. Luckily the weather cleared just after Malmesbury and we eased into a calm and joyful ride.

While travelling we met “Rodger” (Ausie) on his tour riding a rented R1200GS. I don’t think anyone would purchase this bike once his done with it, riding like the devil, but what a pleasant guy. “Rodger”, may you arrive back home safely in Aus and hope to see you back in South Africa in 2011.

Koffie op Malmesbury/Coffee at Malmesbury


Veld blomme buite Springbok/Wild flowers outside Springbok